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Waves are disturbances that propagate through space and time. Classically, they travelled through a medium, disturbing the particles but not changing their mean position. Electromagnetic waves/particle-waves need no medium; they are disturbances in their respective fields.

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Prove momentum is conserved

I have a question which I do not fully understand about conservation of momentum of the shallow-water equation in conservative form. We are given a velocity $u(x,t)$ and the height $h(x,t) = d + l(x,t …
Kjell Stoelinga's user avatar