Background:
By the equivalence principle, an observer (time-like geodesic + orthonormal frame (3 spacelike, 1 timelike) which serves as their measurement standard) in gravitational free fall sees physics which is locally indistinguishable to that they would see in an inertial frame in flat spacetime. As we well-know, measurements in general relativity can only be made locally due to the anholonomy of curved spacetime (ex. we can project the tangent vector of another particle flying by into the observer's physical space subspace of the tangent space at a point. But how do we make a sensible definition of the speed of a particle whose four-velocity is in another tangent space?).
Thus by Einstein's postulate of Special Relativity, the speed of light measured by any observer (time-like geodesic) is $c$ as their measurements are local, and so they might as well be in an inertial frame in Minkowski space. Mathematically: the curved spacetime's metric can always be made close to the Minkowski metric at a point, and so geodesics will locally behave in that famous congruence of inertial observers way - like Einstein and his books in free fall in an elevator.
A lemma that needs to be proven: I've read that measuring a passing worldline's speed (spatial projection of four-velocity) as $c$ literally means its tangent is null. (Why?) The spatial velocity the observer gets for a passing object is defined as $$v = \varepsilon^{\alpha} (v_{\delta,\delta(t_1)}) e_{\alpha}$$ where $e_{\alpha}$ is the observer's orthonormal basis for the "space" directions $\alpha = 1,2,3$ and $\epsilon^{\alpha}$ are the pointwise covector counterparts to these vectors. The tangent vector being acted on is that of the beam of light whose world line I've called $\delta$. How do we prove $v = c \implies g(v_{delta,\delta(t_1)},v_{delta,\delta(t_1)}) = 0$ where $t_1$ is the time of the observer's and light beam's worldlines crossing so the meausurment can be done.
By the geodesic postulate then, the beam continues on through spacetime after its encounter with you always with a null tangent (parallel transport preserves length of tangent). This is one way to see why light beams follow null geodesics in GR.
So here's my question: curved spacetime has geometry pointwise always sufficiently similar to Minkowski, but one needn't be in gravitational free fall. So an accelerated (wrt free fall) observer with $\nabla_X X \neq 0$ shouldn't necessarily measure a local speed of light equal to $c$.
Yet light beams are traveling on null geodesics one way or another, and so as long the observer's tangent is time-like, the measurement should come out to $c$ (once we've proven the above lemma). What is going on here?
Even forgetting curved spacetime, applying this logic to a Rindler observer makes this all the more clear: local measurements of the speed of light are always going to be $c$.