I've confused myself about a rather trivial point. I could write the Lagrangian of the Dirac equation as
$\cal L = {\rm i}/2 \left( \bar \psi \gamma^\nu \partial_\nu \psi + {\rm cc} \right)$
which, for all I can tell is the same as
${\rm i}/2 \left( \partial_\nu (\bar \psi \gamma^\nu \psi) \right) $
So, assuming the current vanishes sufficiently fast at infinity, the volume integral should always vanish, regardless of what $\psi$ is. But that can't be because that would mean that, according to the principle of least action, literally all wave-functions would be solutions (and they'd all be stable under variation too).