Despite studying the general theory for quite some time, this still eludes me.
The geodesic equation can be cast in the form $$ m\frac{d^2x^\mu}{d\tau^2}=-m\Gamma^\mu_{\alpha\beta}\frac{dx^\alpha}{d\tau}\frac{dx^\beta}{d\tau}, $$ so the connection coefficients play the role of a 4-force. The nontensorial nature of this expression is due to the fact that this 4-force essentially contains all inertial "pseudo-forces", including gravity, so it is frame dependent.
It is clear that this equation relates "coordinate-acceleration" to forces as seen by some observer. The essential question is what kind of observer sees "gravitational force" this way?
I mean, in special relativity, for a global Lorentz-frame $(t,x,y,z)$, this frame represents a freely falling observer, whose "space" is described by the cartesian coordinates $x,y,z$.
Switching to a curvilinear coordinate system (in the spatial variables only) makes this less palatable, but I guess we can then employ a local perspective: The coordinate vectors $\partial_i|_p$ are the "yardsticks" of an observer at $p$. But what if we also change the direction of the time coordinate? What does that mean?
Given a general coordinate system in GR, what sort of observer does that coordinate system represent at a certain point $p$? How does he or she experience "space" and "time" from his/her perspective?
What if we use an orthonormal frame instead of a coordinate frame?
Note: I ask this question somewhat more generally but my aim is to be able to tell how some observers experience gravitational force.
For example if I describe Earth with a Schwarzschild-metric (assuming nonrotation) and there is an observer at a fixed point on the surface of the Earth, and a particle is moving freely (for example a projectile fired with some initial conditions), I want to be able to describe mathematically how this observer sees the particle move, and what force does he feel is affecting the particle.
EDIT:
Since my question is apparantly confusing, I interject that I believe my question would be answered incidentally, if someone told me how to handle the following problem:
Let $(M,g)$ be a spacetime where $g=-a(r)dt^2+a(r)^{-1}dr^2+r^2(d\vartheta^2+\sin^2\vartheta d\varphi^2)$ is the Schwarzchild-metric. The Schwarzchild-metric is caused by a planet of mass $M$, whose surface is located at $r=r_p$.
At some point $(r_p,\vartheta_0,\varphi_0)$ and time $t_0$ there is an observer. The observer is motionless with respect to the origin of the coordinate-system, so it's spatial positions are described by $(r_0,\vartheta_0,\varphi_0)$ all the time.
The observer carries three rods of unit length, $\mathbf{e}_1,\mathbf{e}_2,\mathbf{e}_3$ satisfying $g(\mathbf{e}_i,\mathbf{e}_j)=\delta_{ij}$ as a reference frame.
Assume a freely falling particle's worldline crosses the observer's worldline at a point (so that the observer can make local measurements), I assume that the 3-velocity the observer would measure is simply $v^i=e^\mu_i\frac{dx^\nu}{d\tau}g_{\mu\nu}$, right? Same for all 4-tensorial quantities.
But what about the gravitational force? To calculate the connection coefficients, one must know not only the frame at a point, but also in a region around the point. So what is the mathematical expression to describe how the observer detects the force acting on the particle? How is it related to $\Gamma^\mu_{\alpha\beta}$?
If I fired a cannonball from the surface of the earth, how could I use GR to find its (3-)trajectory? The 3-trajectory I see?