I would like to know which are the best methods used to predict sea waves characteristics (particularly predict length/height given water depth and wind speed) and how are they used. My major is unrelated to physics.
I have been googling about this, and found some slides from the MIT's Ocean Engineering) where several complex wave spectral models (like Bretschneider or Jonswap models) are presented, and also found this question, which I think is closely related, however the answer seems to be the "Green's law"...
Could someone give me some advice on this?
Thanks in advice..